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Cheese, a tool for cultural creation and enhancement of the territory

Proasting cheeses means creating culture and enhancing the territory: towards the return of the cheese cart. The speakers are convinced “Think Cheese: Say, Do, Eat”dedicated to the promotion of cheese in all areas and in particular in catering, organized as part of the event B2Cheesetwo days dedicated to the dairy sector hosted at the Bergamo Fair, promoted by Italia a Tavola, Pastificio Felicetti, Pentole Agnelli and Orobica Pesca.

The speakers of “Think Cheese: say, do, eat” at B2Cheese

Cheese, a product to be valued

That the cheese cart has somewhat fallen into disuse is under everyone’s eyes, but now restaurateurs and professionals aim to to ennoble a fundamental and multifaceted ingredient in the kitchen, essential for the creativity of dishes and recipes. Serving temperature, types and combinations sparked a fruitful discussion moderated by Alberto Lupini, director of Italia a Tavola.

Rene Boscowhich represents the world of gourmet pizza and owner of the network of Sapore pizzeriasbegan by specifying the nature of a main ingredient of the pizza: the difference between fiordilatte, cow cheese and buffalo mozzarella. Often the consumer is confused and even insiders should aim for greater culture on the subject. “For my gourmet pizzas, I choose dairy products that enhance the flavors and know-how of those who produced this cheese – comments Renato Bosco -. If I use a typology that has the wrong moisture characteristics, I’m making a huge mistake and ruining the valuable work of the slag”.

“In Bergamo, the cheese cart is mandatory”

Nicolò Quarteroni, general manager of the Ferdy di Lenna farmprovoked the public by claiming that “In Bergamo, the cheese cart should be mandatory more than a license because cheese runs through our veins. The problem is cultural and unfortunately cheese has always been considered second class. the greatest biodiversity in the world and we need a great restaurant with operators explaining why that particular product is good. Cheese is an ingredient of the whole meal, it can be eaten alone or in combination with recipes, while in our menus we aim to enhance it at different stages of the service, including at the end of the meal, associated with a free herbal tea in Villa Crespi. But we also use – concludes Quarteroni – whey and the main ingredient for cooking rice and pasta. Restaurants need to get out of the simple role of feeding peoplein order to enhance the role of the dairy and the cheeses produced”.

make culture

Cristiano Tomei, head chef of L’Imbuto restaurant in Lucca, as well as a well-known television personality, added that “a great cheese is recognized because it is good, it gives me joy and I digest it. You don’t necessarily need labels, but we do. culture with simplicity and talk to people. Cheese needs to make a big comeback in restaurants, but it also needs people who are prepared and able to serve it. Cheese is a culture and even a rind of Parmigiano Reggiano is an element that cannot be lost because each type and production is as important as a monument”.

Prioritize local products

One of the objectives is to train in the world of catering, like this one Antonio Danise, restaurant chef at the Villa Necchi Portalupa hotelin the province of Pavia, and in charge of training for the team of Italian National Chefs, emphasizes that “the products are often unknown and local products must be favored, going there to understand how it is transformed, in order to transfer it to our clients, make the story even more fascinating. In recent years, there has undoubtedly been an involution of the cheese trolley, an essential element of tasting and a raw material that can be used from starter to dessert”.

A moment from the conference

Do not serve cold cheese

Francesco Tassi, master awarded with the recognition of High Master of Catering of the association Maitre Italiani Restaurants et Hôtels, specifies that “when I serve the cheeses in my restaurants, they are already exposed on the table, because serving them cold would be like being punched in the stomach. In all of Italy I found very few restaurants, whereas in Europe there is often no complete meal consisting of an appetizer, a first and a second course, thus facilitating the insertion of the cheese. It would be enough to remove another plate and I hope that the professionals who are missing will also grow”.

A cheese cart with few references

Matteo Felter, head chef of the Osteria Felter alle Rose di Salòin the province of Brescia, on the other hand, emphasizes how “it is essential to have a cheese trolley, but no need to offer many references: 3 or 4 are enough to be shown to the customer as soon as he enters the restaurant and previously purchased by the chef himself. I also think that the cheese plate should not leave the kitchen but should be prepared by the maitre d’ or by the waiter in front of the customer without too many sauces or combinations that alter the taste. When you enter a restaurant, it’s wonderful to smell the smell of cheeses welcoming customers”.

Central element to build the dishes

Cristian Fagone, head chef of the Impronte restaurant in Bergamoone Michelin star, agrees that “cheese is also the central element in the preparation of dishes and the variation in temperature plays a fundamental role for tasting and for its use in cooking. When I happen to go to a restaurant, I always ask if the cheeses are out of the fridge and most of the time I am told that they are in the cell. Even in the explanation of the cheeses themselves, we must give customers the opportunity to imagine the taste of the cheeses they will choose, but without overtaking with too much technical virtuosity. When I’m in the kitchen, I see cheese as an opportunity rather than a limit. It is an extraordinary raw material both in its naturalness and in the transformation according to its own expressive key”.

They were finally presented at the conference the national dairy competitions that will animate the Forme editionprogrammed on October 22 and 23 in Bergamo: “AMARE cheeses”, “Pasta & Caci”, “FOR-ME Pizza” and “Wonder and Emotion”, the latter in partnership with the Onaf delegation from Bergamo.


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