An unusual combination of land and sea, also the result of its openness to international cuisine in the recipe for tuna belly in bread and ham crust by chef Luigi Pomata from Cagliari, which brings together Carloforte and Japan, places distant but united by a great tradition of processing and consuming bluefin tuna
He is commonly considered the chef of bluefin tuna, which you can eat in his refined restaurant in the center of Cagliari, the result of a family tradition that has been cooking with a territorial culture for three generations, starting from the first restaurant of his grand- father on the island of Carloforte, a Ligurian outpost overlooking the southwest coast of Sardinia which, together with Sant’Antioco and a group of islets, constitutes the archipelago of Sulcis. Land of ancient maritime and fishing traditions Carloforte is more than an island, it is an original way of thinking about the sea and its gastronomy. A culture made up of flavors, aromas, tuna fishing rites, discipline, eras and encounters, travels. The Carlofortinis come from afar, they are used to traveling and Luigi, after graduating from the hotel school, leaves the island and forms himself by accumulating important experiences working for important restaurants, in Italy and abroad, in New York with Sirio Maccioni, in London with the three-star Marco Pierre White. What Luigi Pomata, now one of the island’s most sought-after chefs, inherited from his family is a “passion”, dictated by DNA and certainly influenced by the memories and scents he has. worn since childhood, thanks to his father Nicolo, who taught him the rhythm and discipline of this work.
But for Pomata, remaining anchored to the tradition of his land is not a contemplative fact, it is a search for ancient gastronomic stories that the Chef manages to combine perfectly in a dynamic vision with a tremendous desire for curiosity that drives him to always experiment with new ways to enhance the material offered by its land and sea, reinterpreting traditional dishes to always bring them up to date on the tables of our days. “If you live on a rich island like ours – he says – you are almost obliged to source exclusively from local producers. Of course, if you want a good cod it must come from the north of Europe, because it is excellence, if you want to consume excellent oysters they will come from the cold sea of Brittany or if you want an excellent lard you need the Colonnata marble bathtubs. My dogma is to preserve the typical products, so I receive tulips from Holland… certainly not tomatoes grown in greenhouses! »
And with such rigor, he arrived in 2003 to represent Italy at the prestigious BOCUSE D’OR; to win the world review of COUS COUS and since 2000 to be called in various television shows such as: La prova del Cuoco, La cucina del Gambero Rosso and Alice. At the same time, the Sardinian chef has also carried out intense editorial activity by signing several cookbooks: Mediterranean Tuna and Fish, with Luca Montersino (Etoile Edizioni), The Encyclopedia of Sardinian Cuisine (Edizioni Unione Sarda), La cuisine de Necklace Luigi Pomata: my path – I libelluli (Il Golfo Editions); IL TUNNO by Luigi Pomata (Italian Gourmet Editions), My story on a plate (Edizioni Trenta Editore).
The recipe offered this week to Mondo Food readers is tuna belly in bread crust and ham with chard in two consistencies, an unusual mixture of land and sea, also the result of its openness to international cuisine. In fact, in this dish he brings together Carloforte and places in Japan so far apart but united by a great tradition of processing and consuming bluefin tuna,
so noble Ventresca meets a cornerstone like wasabi that gives freshness and prepares the palate for each new bite.
The Recipe: Tuna belly in a bread crust and ham with chard in two consistencies,
Ingredients for four people
Tuna belly 700 gr
Grated bread 100g
Raw ham 150g
Wild beets 1 kg
Wasabi powder 2g
Pepper mixed to taste
Oil, salt, pepper to taste
Clean the belly and remove the stringy parts. Get 4 servings.
Place the ham on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and dry overnight at 60°C. Chop the ham
Prepare the mince by putting the bread, ham, pepper mixed to taste and lemon zest.
Wash the beets and blanch them for a few minutes in salted water. Cool them immediately. Remove the stalks and mix them with some leaves, wasabi and extra virgin olive oil until you get a green and creamy sauce.
Bread the belly. In an iron skillet with oil, brown the tuna on both sides, put in the oven at 180°C for 5 minutes. Cut the belly into two parts. Leave to rest in a warm environment.
Brown the chard in a pan with oil.
serve and serve
Restaurant Luigi Pomata
Viale Regina Margherita 18
+39 070 672 058