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Cooking: Recipe (starred) for Risotto “Fra Boullabaisse and a mussel soup”

DIFFICULT SITUATION



giuliano de risi

In 1825, Giuseppe Acerbi, a keen nature observer, a fundamental figure in the study of Italian ampelography, who had planted around 1500 grape varieties for scientific purposes in his Castel Goffredo estate in Mantua, mentioned for the first time a grape variety rare unknown for the most part, grown on the steep slopes of the Amalfi coast from Scala to Ravello to Amalfi but also to Furore Tramonti and Positano. The name of the grape variety was a whole program: Ginestra an appellation that gave the meaning of the scent of its grapes, clearly fruity. However, this fragrant variety has not had the chance, over time, of many other Campanian varieties, which have become much more illustrious such as Fiano, L’Asprino, Greco, Falanghina. But he has not disappeared. Thanks to the perseverance of winegrowers who love their family traditions, the Ginestra has come down to us, officially registered in the national catalog of vine varieties in 2005, even though it is only grown on four hectares throughout the territory. Serena De Vita, Irpinia’s passionate sommelier speaks lovingly: “Wanting to borrow Greek common sense, few places in Campania are able to define the concept of beauty through harmony and proportion as on the Amalfi Coast. The “agreement” between natural morphology and human intervention has been renewed over the centuries to produce one of the most evocative scenarios of the Tyrrhenian coast: a real environmental logistics developed through modulations clinging to the slopes of the Lattari Mountains. From the steep peaks to the waters of the Gulf of Salerno, the profile is defined by terraced cultivation, expedients thanks to which olive groves, lemon trees and vineyards coexist by will and primary heritage. A natural reservoir of agronomic varieties, in particular the ampelographic ones, of which little or nothing has made a nod to past trends devoted to the proposal of international vines. In the panel of autochthonous winemaking tradition, the case of “Ginestra” is particular, a widespread and cultivated variety, although in small quantities, exclusively on the Amalfi Coast. In the oldest literature it is found under synonyms such as Nocella, Ginestrello, Genestrello, to which are added the close relatives Biancazita and Biancatenera, to underline an imported historicity firmly linked to the territory which is its guardian. The viticultural practice of the last decades has seen this species compete mainly in the sale of other varieties of the region, Biancolella and Falanghina above all, and converge towards the parent denomination.

Paolo Barale, starred chef of the refined restaurant l’Aria, in the historic center of Naples, has also fallen in love with the delicate aromas of Ginestra wine, a first course that combines two distant places, but deeply bathed by the same sea.

Barrale, born in 1973, of Sicilian origin, forged by the strict rules of French cuisine and classic cuisine, with important experiences in prestigious kitchens, such as that of La Pergola at the Rome Cavalieri under the leadership of Heinz Beck or those of Marennà, the exclusive restaurant di Feudi di San Gregorio, surprises you with its look between bonhomie and irony and with its cordiality. But in the kitchen, bonhomie gives way to a severe vision of processes and technique. Its gastronomic credo, built over the years, is in fact a rigorous attestation of three fundamental principles: balance, elegance and simplicity (the latter only appearing, of course, as the result of a long study in the design and production of a dish), combined with an attentive, almost maniacal respect for the raw material and its territory of origin. In the recipe that Mondo Food offers this week, the starred chef manages to combine Campania and Provence with a happy intuition, two remote regions but which in any case overlook the same sea, and which have many points in common, such as colors, flavors, a strong Mediterranean identity. Barrale plays its risotto with a clever bank of references and nuances, with rock fish and its broth, saffron, fennel, lime and smoked paprika and the two Regions come together in this dish, each bringing with it contamination and clean techniques. “The evolution and structuring of a dish – says the chef – is fascinating (to observe as well as to participate in it). Observing the creative process, which from concept becomes substance, helps to immerse oneself in the succession of aromas, flavors, textures and returns through which the dish itself becomes a narrator.” all without forgetting the part work, to play, to have fun and with great attention, at the same time, to the principle of recycling which in the kitchen, especially somewhere in this part, has become a social imperative. great chefs is that transforming waste to eliminate waste into a resource in the kitchen is not only useful but can be fun and open the way to new flavors.

The idea of ​​risotto – explains the chef – stems from some trips made in the past from the idea that fish soup is a dish that is served throughout the Adriatic and the Mediterranean, also born with the possibility of reuse unsold fish or maybe that small amount that is often not taken into account… At the air restaurant we use quality ingredients and there are often undervalued ingredients left such as fish throats or possibly some crustaceans like mantis shrimp… a great flavor! With a thought therefore linked to resilience, here is our risotto!”

Risotto recipe “Fra Boullabaisse and a mussel soup”

Ingredients for 4 persons

Bouillabaisse (for risotto)

50 g of oil

1 clove of garlic

15g parsley stalks

100 g of fennel

50 g of leek

100g spring onion

1/2 kg of lobster heads

1 kg of rock fish bones

200 gr of mussels and clams

50g per night

100g of white wine

750 kg of peeled tomatoes

Method

Continue by simmering the vegetables with the oil, add the lobster heads (in small pieces), add the bones well bled, then deglaze with the Pernot and the white wine. Add the peeled tomato and cover with water, simmer for 20 minutes, let stand and strain.

For the fish head mug

Season the throats of large fish like redfish, grouper with oil, salt, parsley, stalks, wine, i. Bake for a few minutes (210°C for 8 minutes).

Proceed by stripping in large pieces. With the bare bones, make a quick strip flavored with lemon zest, pepper, parsley. filter the bottom and reserve 500 g of the remaining part, reduce well and season the fish pulp. we roll in film and we make a tea towel. Let cool.

For the risotto

200 g of Carnaroli rice

100 gr of fennel brunoise

20g of white wine

20g Pernod

1/2 bag of saffron

1 pinch of chilli

Start the risotto by wetting the rice with white wine and Pernod.

Leave to evaporate and continue cooking, alternating water and stock. Add the fennel and when it is cooked, add the reduced broth and the saffron. Turn off the heat with a little delicate extra virgin olive oil and fresh chilli.

Serve the risotto in an earthen pan

Pour it over the fish cut carpaccio sprinkled with smoked paprika and lime zest

by FirstFood

Il risotto stellato dello chef Paolo Barrale: la ricetta che sposa sapori e profumi di Provenza e Campania

20/09/2022 10:34:00
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