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elegance and modernity. To make known

Elegance and modernity. These are the two key words which must distinguish the Luganaa wine too often considered “ready to drink” and which turns out instead to be a product of unexpected longevity and persistence.

The Luganathrough his Protection Consortiumwas the protagonist of the evening Wines and Chefs of Lombardya project born from the synergy of Ask him (the association that brings together the protection consortia of Lombardy), Lombardy Region and Identity Golose.

The vice president of the Consortium, Paul Pasinihas therefore tried to highlight certain aspects related to Lugana: “The production area covers both Lombardy and Veneto. Three important factors characterize our wines. First there is Lake Garda, which offers us a very important microclimatic element. Secondly, the texture of the soil: we are in an area created by the retreat of the glaciers and for this reason the soils are very rich in clay, which gives structure, strength and minerality. The third factor is our native vine, the Turbian: a grape variety that brings great acidity, freshness, and which, combined with the complexity of the terroir, gives the wines great harmony”.

Mountains, lake and vineyards of Turbian: are the factors that characterize the Lugana

“The Lugana – points out Pasini – both young and a few years older, it is very easy to drink. We are a small denomination, but growing for many years.” At present, the average annual production of the Denomination is around 27 million bottles. “But even only twenty years ago – he specifies Pasini – they were much less, about 4 or 5 million”.

An analysis of what Lugana came to the reporter Fabio Piccoli: “The challenge for any producer today is to make his wine recognizable. Hence the reasoning: there is a paradigm for understanding the Lugana? Maybe yes. The Lugana it is extremely similar to its own territory. We are located on Lake Garda, one of the most beautiful places in Italy, characterized by a very particular climate, with the nearby mountains, such as Monte Baldo, and winds that mitigate the climate, so much so that it is popular with tourists even now, in these early days of autumn”.

Fabio Piccoli during the presentation meeting

Fabio Piccoli during the presentation meeting

“All these elements lead us to believe that the Lugana can be an elegant and contemporary wine. The landscape of the Lugana is elegant, the cellars of Lugana they are elegant. And contemporary, because it is “easy” to understand for those approaching this product. For this he is a perfect testimony of the Made in Italy. True, now the popularity is greater abroad, but it is no coincidence, because it is representative of the Made in Italy and a fantastic territory”.

Currently, in fact, 70% of Lugana it is aimed abroad, while as far as Italy is concerned it is very concentrated in the North, also using the engine of tourism. But the Lugana he wants to get out of this scheme, and reach as many tables as possible, starting with Milan, where he would like to increase the presence on the city’s restaurant menus.

The beauty of the landscape

The beauty of the landscape

Then there is another important factor to consider: “Let’s not forget – he concludes small – the great skill of the producers, who were able to demonstrate how extremely lively this white wine is. Even more than 10, 15 and 20 years old. Longevity is the factor that characterizes great wines”.

To prove the veracity of these elements, the Consortium leads toCenter of Identity Golose Milano four bottles, with different styles, but all of which manage to highlight aspects of Lugana.

The first wine is from a young company, Marida Benedettias the son explains Alessandro Marcoli“We tried to make a Lugana more identity possible. We only produce three thousand bottles, although as a company we would have the potential to reach up to 70 thousand. But for now, we’re focusing on that. Our dream, in the future, is to create our own cellar”. The wine, vintage 2021, is very intense on the nose, with dominant notes of white fruits, and on the palate it has a marked flavor.

Alessandro Marcoli presents his Lugana

Alessandro Marcoli presents his Lugana

Gilberto Castoldi of Cobuepresenting his Camp8 2019gave his interpretation of Lugana. “We make it fresh – he explains – then leave it for two years in the bottle, with a screw cap. We consider this closure as the ideal. At first the wine has a little reduction, but then slowly it comes out. We are on the morainic hills, in the only municipality that does not overlook the lake, but with soils that have a higher percentage of limestone. Our production is around one hundred thousand bottles, half of which are Lugana“. This Luganamaintaining that elegance common to all the wines tasted, it also has a slightly lemony note, with a long, pleasant and persistent sip.

Paul Pasinivirtually taking off her vice-president’s robe from Consortium and wearing those of the farmer producer Pasini San Giovannipresented his own instead Busocaldo 2019, Lugana Reserve. “I have always been a promoter of the longevity of the wines of our territory – he explained – Many wines from across the Alps are initially only very acidic, then acquire a balance over the years. We, on the other hand, have harmony right away. In the case of my wine, I work the fine lees for a year and a half in steel tanks, in the absence of oxygen”. A strongly characterized wine, where in addition to fruit, notes of yeast, sweet spices, saffron, aromatic herbs and dried fruits stand out, with an enveloping sip but supported – again – by the acidity and the taste.

The four wines to taste

The four wines to taste

The last bottle is the one presented by John Avanzi – agency Leftovers – with the Lugana Riserva Borghetta 2018. “As a company we are located in Sirmione, with 23 hectares – he explains – Here the percentage of clay is very high. This wine ferments in new Allier barrels for 7 months, then spends two years in vats and six months in bottle”. In this case, there is a greater aromatic evolution, with a note of vanilla brought by the wood, which however integrates with notes of ripe fruit, exotic fruits and balsamic notes. On the palate, it is not cloying, but it retains excellent drinkability.

Wines that passed the field test, in dinner at Identità Golose Milan with the cook Simone Breda of the restaurant Sedicesimo Secolo in Pudiano, in Orzinuovi, in the province of Brescia (here the story of the dinner)

Four different wines which are nevertheless an excellent calling card for Lugana: elegant and contemporary. And to make known.

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