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Matteo Baronetto’s recipe in a classic and modern version

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Self Matteo Baronet nine years ago he was chosen as a prestigious chef Change of Turin, it is also because it is a Turin thoroughbred, to be precise by Giaveno. His experiences in the Roaring Twenties of the avant-garde, mainly alongside Carlo Cracco, they launched a stimulating challenge for the renovation of the restaurant, remodeled by the owners in the contrast between old and new, the golden mirrors of Savoy and the mirror paintings of Pistoletto, which bounce off.

Credits Andrea Moretti

This operation could serve as a case history for a country rich in history and monumental restaurants like ours, so much the expectations were met and largely exceeded for all types of customers, except maybe a few inspectors.

Credits @Oddthor

The ancient cornerstones of Turin remained, as agnolotti, Cavour rice and especially the quickly thundered, which is still one of the best-selling dishes on the menu. This recipe, which dates back to the 18th century, therefore as old and older than the restaurant, whose name, contrary to appearances, derives from the French word “Tanned”, that is to say tannedWhere “treated like tuna“, Or boiled and preserved in oil; but which over time would have been infiltrated by the sea, according to the well-known sea-and-mountain pattern in a region used for the Ligurian anchovy trade.

Vitel tonné by Matteo Baronetto in its current version

The first written record can be seen in the Cooking for sensitive stomachs by Angelo Dubini (1862), who offers 3 recipes including one with tuna sauce and cooking juices, taken over by Artusi in 1891. Then a range of versions on which we still struggle: with or without mayonnaise, or “old fashioned”, hot or cold, roasted or boiled.

The plaque

For a Piedmontese, even a family memory. “But at home I have always eaten “modestly”, there has never been a great curiosity for food. Not that we eat to feed ourselves, but almost. My mother bought the classic veal mayonnaise from time to time in the gastronomy from Marchesi I learned to do it with fillet cooked at low temperature and later from Peck, which was still a charcuterie, I reclaimed it.

Vitel thundered – “old” version

I really like the old one, with a thick slicebecause after all it is a dish made up of the remains of a roast, transformed into a delicacy as popular cuisine can do”. But the poetics of similarity in time has also become yet another game of mirrors between Cavour and Pistoletto: since 2017 the vitel tonné has been served in two acts, and paradoxically the “modern” is the oldest.

Vitel thundered – “revised” version (actually original)

When I arrived at Del Cambio, I immediately removed the mayonnaise and started serving a sauce prepared with meat stock, tuna, anchovies, capers and hard-boiled egg yolk. Then, when I brought out the Menu nel Tempo, which compared different thoughts on individual dishes, I joined the version with and without mayonnaise, so that those who eat can appreciate the differences and develop their own thinking. I am looking for the correct cooking of the veal, which is not dry, with well-executed sauces; and paradoxically my touch is old-fashioned, with a touch of mayonnaise with veal jus as an accompaniment, turnip greens for crunch and freshness. Even today, when this menu is no longer there, it remains on the menu all year round, with the agnolotti and the Milanese in two readings”.

Matthew Baronet

Twinning

Recipes for Vitel Tonné by Matteo Baronetto

Meat

Let’s start with a round of veal or a round of veal, we clean it well, we remove the band of nerves which remains a little hard during cooking and we leave it to marinate for 16 hours in the refrigerator. Then we dry it well and brown it in a non-stick pan with plenty of very hot oil; the browning phase requires a lot of attention because the meat must be browned on all sides.

Once the turn of veal has browned, it will be cooked in a vacuum bag with olive oil at 67°C for one hour and forty-five minutes. Instead of extra virgin olive oil, drained tuna oil can be used. The sole thus prepared will be used for both versions of our vitello tonnato.

The two versions of the vitello tonnato

For the traditional version, we slice it with a slicer, we plate it carefully, then we add the traditional tuna sauce, that we make with classic ingredients: mayonnaise, tuna in oil, capers, anchovies, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. We finish with open capers as a garnish.

The revised version was born by interpreting the history of vitello tonnato, which was apparently already prepared in the 18th century. At the time there was no tuna, it was added by Artusi in 1891, while mayonnaise was added in 1850. The ingredients for the sauce in this second recipe are therefore a brunoise of celery and carrots, veal stock, hard-boiled egg yolk, tuna in oil, salted anchovies and salted capers.

let’s start doing a light veal base using waste from cleaning the walker, a little onion, a little sage and three tablespoons of oil. The pan must be very hot, spread the scraps well and let them sizzle and brown without stirring them too much, to obtain the right color. The preparation of this base can vary from an hour to an hour and a half depending on the quantities. The meat must be well browned, it is important to concentrate and caramelize the pieces, then season by adding touches of onion and sage leaves. Then we will wet twice with cold water – the sizzling confirms the correct procedure, the temperature must be very high – and while the first time we leave to dry, the second we cover with water and simmer for a hour, an hour and a half. At this stage we filter everything and keep the sauce that we reduce.

We get the sauce by putting our veal stock in a glass and adding capers and anchovies, tuna and egg.. Press lightly to start chopping the ingredients a little, then mix in the blender, adding the brunoise of golden vegetables.

In this case, the dish provides thicker slices (once there was no slicer, so the walker was cut with a knife). Let’s arrange our slices at random on the plate, let’s put some raw celery leaves, others cooked in oil, turnip leaves passed in a caper powder – obtained by drying and crushing the buds -, fried capers and the meat cooking stock, with which we will season and slightly soil the slices. We finish with some of our sauce and veal stock mixed with mayonnaise.

Photo of Lido Vannucchi

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Restaurant Del Cambio

Piazza Carignano, 2 – 10123, Turin – Italy

Such. +39 011 546690

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