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October 2022 by Gambero Rosso: the historic alliance of wine and cheese

Gambero Rosso, October 2022 monthly: the themes of the new issue

If it is true that wine and food have been consumed in unison since the dawn of time, it is also true that this marriage of tastes was done until a few years ago in a completely casual way, without search for particular gastronomic results. Variety, quality and territorial character unite the beloved pair of wine and cheese, a historic combination that has the flavor of Italy, linked by ancestral ties, but constantly evolving. Between dogmas and anarchist tendencies, combining them in the right direction remains a game of chance: it can succeed or not. Challenges ? mutual exaltation; the explosion of aromas and flavors that aptly describe our territory (or the reverse, it goes without saying). In the October 2022 monthly of Gambero Rosso, there is also talk of food and wine destinations to explore, such as Valpolicella, Portugal and Austria. And then do we really want to reduce English cuisine to tea and fish and chips? In the stories, we give you some good reasons not to.

Wines & cheeses. The art of marrying two noble protagonists of the table and of Italian history

The wine and cheese pairing is an event to be experienced moment by moment, the sommelier and president of ASPI Giuseppe Vaccarini talks about it. The general principle for obtaining an exciting pairing between wines and cheeses – a theme to which Vaccarini has devoted a successful manual (the Manual of Combinations, Giunti 2008) – is to immediately identify their taste characteristics. In particular, the most intense and persistent sensations of cheeses are the perception of sweetness and fat, followed by a discreet juiciness and aromatic. It is therefore essential to clearly identify the organoleptic characteristics of a type of cheese before choosing the wine that will accompany it. Then there is a rule of thumb to keep in mind which is suggested by the type of dish that precedes the cheese.

The other Valpolicella. A suggestive land of wine to discover staying in the vineyard and among the olive groves

Suggestive land of wine: Valpolesèla, from the Latin “val polis cellae”, means valley of many cellars. We start from the wine, which redesigned the borders and profiles of this place, and created a brand exported all over the world, but we discover a varied and qualitative gastronomic offer, evocative landscapes and the desire to affirm the territorial identity. . Keeping together tradition, innovation and typically Venetian know-how.

Epokale era. From a great classic to a special Gewürztraminer

After six years in the heart of the mountains, the new vintage of an extraordinary wine is coming out. From last to first in 2009, the story of a wine that immediately became a legend: Epokale, a spin-off of the great Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer from Cantina Tramin in Termeno, the result of a new selection of grapes in the vineyard and of a unique refinement in the world. A spicy, iconic and unique wine, from mature vines, between 20 and 30 years old, the masterpiece of Willi Stürz, today the guru of Gewürztraminer.

English gastronomy. Beyond fish and chips. Substance and identity of English cuisine, often abused by clichés

Eggs and bacon for breakfast, a cup of tea at five in the afternoon, fish and chips to eat on the go. But is this really English cuisine? And what part of history do the rituals in question hide? An investigation into the origins of the most authentic British gastronomy: a story of social classes, kings and queens, peasants and hosts. In October, we reassessed (or – why not – saved) the British culinary tradition, too long considered the “Cinderella” of European gastronomy. While catering is moving rapidly towards innovative formulas and increasingly high-quality foods, sustainable and regional ingredients, home cooking remains as always: simple, consistent, without frills. Reduced to bone; yet, reassuring; essential but not trivial. Consisting of a Sunday roast and full breakfast, Southern and Northern cheeses, cozy quiches and plenty of sweets from Victoria sponge to scones to Battenberg cake.

The intimate and colorful Portugal to discover between azulejos, pastéis and bacalhau from Lisbon to Porto

If there is a welcoming country, perfect to visit at any time of the year and with widespread and high quality food and wine appeal, it is Portugal. A beautiful country to see (there are 25 Unesco sites) and good to eat and drink. The ideal place to discover easily by car, given that its size allows it to be traveled far and wide: always pleasant climate, “comfortable” destination because it is close to Italy and capable of satisfying all the senses. Between the azulejos of Lisbon, the super romantic music of Fado, the delicious Pastéis de Belém and its wines, from Porto to Madeira and Vinho Verde in the north of the country, everything contributes to making Portugal a pleasant country that is absolutely worth a visit. .

Not just Porto… Focus on one of the oldest wine regions in Europe

Even if the wine we know only begins to live in the last century, Portugal has in the Douro a concentration of 2,000 years of vine and vine history that begins since the Phoenicians: one of the regions oldest and noblest wineries in the world. Modern attention and care, therefore, and an ancient tradition, with more than 250 historic vineyards: Portugal is truly worth getting to know. And not just for wine!

From Vienna to Styria to discover a green and agricultural Austria that believes in wine, bio and technology

Three different faces of Austrian agriculture. The urban and above all wine-growing city of Vienna, with the Heurigen, the taverns on the first hill a few minutes from the historic center. The peaceful and rural area of ​​Lower Austria and Styria, a region in southern Austria that has had a moment of grace in recent years. All three are the expression of a territory and a quality of life, with dynamic, sustainable companies at the forefront of tourism.

Recipes of the month and rankings

Giuseppe Torrisi of the Cortile Spirito Santo restaurant at Palazzo Salomone in Ortigia opens the section dedicated to recipes and presents four of his emblematic dishes, including “Walks in the woods of Etna”, a dessert made with chocolate and hazelnuts. We know three dishes strongly linked to the territory of chef Gerhard Wieser, who brings his South Tyrol to the table giving rise to an anti-ideological, militant and very amused cuisine. We move on to Isernia, to visit Existo Osteria Molisana, where in the dishes he orders what nature gives: homemade charcuterie and cheeses aged alone, at the right time plenty of space for mushrooms and truffles. Cod is the prince of the table, but the undisputed queen is the famous sweet and juicy “Isernia acorn onion”, the protagonist of the “Song r” sernia” recipe, a true ode to this product.

Mara Nocilla tasted 12 (+8) canned chickpeas this month, rich in starch, fiber, protein, minerals and vitamins, they are perfect for fall. We offer them ready to taste in two classifications: those available in niche stores and those present in supermarkets. The issue also features the preview of the 2023 Italian Wine Guide, the Wine Tasting Tour organized by Gambero Rosso to showcase the new wines awaiting the release of this year’s edition. The appointment – from September 12 to 17 – involved some of the most renowned wine merchants from all over Italy to discover the new vintages of the wines of 40 Italian wineries that we present to you with the tasting cards.

The mini-guide and the closing of the October issue

A hundred years ago, the circuit that attracts thousands of Formula 1 fans every September was born, which is why the October mini-guide, curated by Valentina Marino, is dedicated to Monza. The capital of the system Brianza, as economists call it, is a model of efficiency in the name of well-being in all respects. It is surrounded by a peaceful rural landscape, offers pearls such as the Villa Reale with its gardens and the Arengario, as well as a cultured and flourishing restaurant that pays homage to peasant tradition but also knows how to look far ahead. In the October 2022 monthly Gambero Rosso, you will find 39 addresses to remember when visiting the region. The issue ends with the graphic novel “Born by chance Bubble Tea” by Cinzia Leone.

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