THEThe restaurant, in the historic center of Castiglione delle Stiviere (Mn)opened in the spring of 1999 and located in an elegant 16th century building, is the reign of a friendly couple: his wife, Fabiana Tabaiin the kitchen, her husband, Giampietro Ferriin the dining room to take care of the service with skill.
The ingredients of the territory are mixed with imagination and lightness, between seductive reinterpretations of typical recipes, in fact the territorial bond that is created through the dishes of Tradition of Mantua and, given the proximity to Lake Garda, also freshwater fish dishes.
Giampietro Ferri, Fabiana Tabai, Alberto Lupini, Cornelio Marini and Federico Bovarini
In this context, the third meeting of the project took place Ascovilo, Grana Padano and Italy at the table “Born to be together: Restaurant Week” (borntobetogether.eu), an ideal opportunity to enjoy a temporary 4-course menu (starter, starter, second course and dessert) made with the three different maturations of Grana Padano: 12, 18 and more than 20 months.
The dinner, as usual, was preceded by a moment dedicated to journalists, restaurateurs, professionals and gourmets in which, moderated by the director of Italia a Tavola Alberto Lupinitrained by Federico Bovarini (AIS), Cornelio Marini (Onaf), Valeria Radici Odero (Frecciarossa) e Emmauel Gozzi (Cantina Gozzi), it was possible to discover the qualities of the different breedings of Grana Padano Dop and to play with the associations of wines to be tasted.
Grana Padano 12 months has marked lactic notes, hints of butter and cream, a delicate taste in which slight vegetal notes can be glimpsed; the 18 months tastier but not yet spicy, an aroma in which the butter becomes stronger with hints of dried fruits and tropical fruits; finally, the aging over 20 months, a tasty and full flavor, scented with strong and intense notes, amplified compared to the other two agings.
Tasting Notes by Federico Bovarini
“Riserva Colombara” Garda Doc Chardonnay from the Gozzi company, “Povromme” Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2019 from the Molino di Rovescala company, “Carillo” Pinot Nero dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2021 from the Frecciarossa company
“Riserva Colombara” Garda Doc Chardonnay from Gozzi
The color is the first thing that strikes you. The color is deep golden yellow, shiny and lively. By bringing the glass to the nose, you will perceive notes of slightly fermented yellow apple, light herbaceous streaks, lime zest, well-blended spices, pinches of coriander white pepper. Floral bouquet and aromatic herbs invite you to drink a wine that gives the feeling of young and rampant. In the mouth the wine is vertical. It fully follows the traces of acidity and flavor that one would probably expect softer from clay soil. Nice juicy entry and fresh thirst-quenching finish. A wine that promises to be long. Frank and decisive wine.
“Povromme” Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2019 from Molino di Rovescala
The appearance is typical of a croatine: impenetrable mass and violet colouring. A wine that tints our glass with a considerable purple consistency. The aromas provide a particularly rich and complex palette. Notes full of ripe black fruits, sweet spices ranging from cloves to cinnamon, pot pourri floral, lightly toasted notes and a balsamic finish that refreshes such an enveloping nose.
The first sensation in the mouth is soft and delicately sweet. Ample, round and tasty. The finish instead releases the typical freshness of a bonarda that cleanses our palate far and above all. Savory and mineral finish.
“Carillo” Pinot Nero d’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2021 from the company Frecciarossa
The robe is reminiscent of the elegance of pinot noir. Intense and brilliant ruby red. Shades of wild berries that intertwine with black spices: from licorice sticks to black pepper. Crunchy fruits, crunchy and fresh florality. Fully dressed, this wine brings a velvety note to the nose which picks up on the palate.
The entrance is full and slender. This freshness invites tasting, reminiscent of a velvety pomegranate juice with a present but never covering tannin. Elegant and fine even on the palate and disarming and pleasing with its precise line of interpretation of the territory. Simple, precise and never banal.
White sturgeon in Garda oil, Gargnano cedar and Grana Padano Dop 12 months
Once the training masterclass has been archived, there is still room for the 4 courses that make up the evening menu. The aperitif, theWhite sturgeon in Garda oil, Gargnano cedar and Grana Padano Dop 12 months“, Reinterpretation of a classic of Mantuan cuisine and a must for banquets at the Gonzaga court, the sweet notes of the cheese in contrast with the cedar go well with the “Riserva Colombara” Garda Doc Chardonnay from Gozzi.
Pumpkin tortelli topped with melted butter, fermented pumpkin seeds and Grana Padano Dop 18 months
The first, perhaps the most famous dish of local cuisine, the “Pumpkin tortelli topped with melted butter, fermented pumpkin seeds and Grana Padano Dop 18 months“. Few ingredients, pumpkin and amaretto flour and Grana, here enhanced with the same fermented and pulverized pumpkin seeds. In combination with the “Povromme ”Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2019 from the company Molino di Rovescala. The aromaticity of amaretto goes hand in hand with the aromatic range of croatine and what balances the combination is the acidity and flavor of the wine.
Roasted cockerel breast with shallot, beetroot and Grana Padano Dop sauce over 20 months
According to “Roasted cockerel breast with shallot, beetroot and Grana Padano Dop sauce over 20 months», Another traditional dish and contrasts of taste and texture, the crunchiness of the chicken and the smoothness of the sauce, its sweetness as a counterpoint to the freshness of the beetroot and the shallot. To accompany him “Carillo” Pinot Nero d’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2021 from the company Frecciarossa. The combination was masterful because the delicacy of the white meat went well with the finesse of the pinot noir and the cream of Grana Padano gave structure and personality to the dish, very well supported by the personality of the Pinot noir.
Fried polenta with Grana Padano Dop ice cream 12 months
At closing”Fried polenta with Grana Padano Dop ice cream 12 months“, Roundness and flavor that play with a touch of pepper.
Full schedule of appointments
Would you like to take part in the next Restaurant Week events? Click on the next dates to register!
September 21 | Restaurant La Sprelunga – Seveso (Mb) [clicca per leggere l’articolo]
Tel 0362 503150 – www.lasprelunga.it
September 28 | Antica Cascina San Zago – Salò (Bs) [clicca per leggere l’articolo]
Tel 039 5312410 – www.anticacascinasanzago.it
October 11 | Osteria da Pietro – Castiglione delle Stiviere (Mn)
Tel 0376 673718 – www.osteriadapietro.it
Osteria da Pietro
Via G. Chiassi 19 – 46043 Castiglione delle Stivière (Mn)
Tel 0376 673718