Lord Byron lover and great connoisseur of the culture of the Bel Paese, he maintained that “all human history attests that the happiness of man, a hungry sinner, since Eve ate the apple, depends a lot on lunch” and we Italians know it well. Notably Sunday lunch it is one of those fixed appointments that crosses the generations and is constantly renewed by asserting itself as a pillar of the conviviality of our culinary culture. In Naples, therefore, it is a true ritual faithful to tradition and family. A rite also celebrated at Grand Hotel Parker’s at Muse Restauranton the sixth floor with a view of the Gulf of Naples, thanks to kitchen by chef Vincenzo Fioravante every Sunday from 12:30 p.m.
Lunch at the Muse restaurant
Tradition and modernity at Parker’s
A proposal in the footsteps of tradition but with renewed attention to the new needs of contemporaneity, in a menu that evolves with confidence and affection between tradition and sustainability. Sunday lunch at Muse restaurant is inspired by the cuisine and Mamma Matilde’s recipes, the mother of the hotel’s Avallone owners. “It is not only an honor, but also an emotion to be able to converse every day with Mrs. Matilde Avallone – says chef Fioravante – through her dishes and to let the Neapolitans know how a strong and passionate woman was able to seize the essence of our tradition and make it a bulwark of his family’s history and a bit of our city”.
The assonances Chief Fioravante talks about are the use of Monocultivar Taggiasca oil from Liguria or the extensive use of aromatic herbs such as basil and rosemary up to dishes such as three tomato ravioli, where the main course ravioli of the Genoese tradition is celebrated, believed to have been born in Gavi Ligure and arrived on the coast thanks to trade between the maritime republics.
The tradition that inspired the recipes of Mother Matilda, are the result of a simple kitchen between the two wars whose techniques of preservation and reuse and the almost total absence of food waste are very topical today. The issue is of international importance. Food loss and waste compromise the sustainability of our food systems which cannot be resilient if they are not sustainable. More than 14% of food is lost during the supply chain between harvest and sale, so much so that there is a need to focus on adopting integrated approaches capable of reducing losses and waste food. If overall Goal 12 of the 2030 Agenda is the goal towards which governments and associations must strive, on the occasion of the International Food Loss and Waste Awareness Day, every gesture and every individual decision can make a difference. Attention to these issues is one of the pillars of the Grand Hotel Parker’s hospitality philosophy, particularly through the cuisine of chef Fioravante and the Sunday Lunch culinary project. The chef is faithful to the teachings of Mama Matilde and to new sustainable requirements, for example by reusing meat sauce scraps for cooking meatballs. It “anneals” poorly cut pieces of eggplant parmigiana, creating parmigiana croquettes. He prepares canned red fruits, apples and onions from Campania (copper and Vatolla onion), which he uses in meat cooking juices and for the preparation of the famous sponge cake.
Between the dishes of the poor kitchenFioravante prefers eggs cooked at low temperature which, in the summer menu, combine with creams of seasonal legumes (also typical of bad cuisine), while in winter it offers it with tomato, in reference to the famous recipe ofEgg in purgatory. An emblematic dish of Neapolitan cuisine, which is traditionally prepared on Mondays, with the surplus of Sunday ragù, has over time been the harbinger of almost mythological tales that link this dish to the cult of “pezzentelle” souls. But the bond between the chef and Mamma Matilde goes far beyond a cooking technique. Traditionally the Neapolitan ragù it cooks from 6 to 12 hours, while Vincenzo cooks for 36 hours. Its very slow cooking begins on the fire and ends on the gas hob. A technique taken from the recipes of Mamma Matilde, who hated the dark rosewood color of the classic Neapolitan stew and preferred to keep the bright red color of the tomato sauce.
say that We are what we eatas Feuerbach already claimed in the 19th century, it is not only a question of food from a materialist point of view but also from a relational point of view, in the sense that each stage of human life, whether baptism or marriage, is marked by the inevitable presence of the banquet, symbolic image of Neapolitan sociality. Food sustainability is therefore also a tool for restoring relationships, it teaches us or re-teaches the best affective dynamics that can be born and consolidated around a table. So what, observe Naples from above of the Muse restaurant and savoring its deepest and tastiest essence in a collective ritual such as Sunday lunch is only possible at Grand Hotel Parker’s.
The restaurant of the Muse-Grand Hotel Parker
Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135 – 80121 Naples
Tel 081 7612474