Each ingredient is cooked alone and strongly identifies the pairing that is made in the dish. For example, the beef tastes like beef, it does not taste like pepper, but the magic happens later, in the form of simple notes which, in the mouth, become harmonious.
A nice taste journey in Lombardy cash contrasts who, because of the strong personality of Sironi, they must never fail. The essential companion for every dish Luganaa wine from an unpolluted environment and which knows how to tell the thousand nuances of the terroir of our region.
The wines tasted during the Masterclass led by Andrea Guolobefore dinner with the chef Sironi
The success of the exhibition continues Lombardy Wines and Chefsorganized by Golose Identity, Lombardy Region And Ask him that last Tuesday had again as welcome guests the excellent wines of Lugana DOC Protection Consortium.
“With my menu I paid homage to Lombardy, which is divided into several provinces, each with its own unique identity – says the chef Elio Sironi of Ceresio 7. It has always fascinated me to see how in Lombardy, by moving a little, you can discover tastes, traditions and products so different from each other. Milan, which has been my home for years, is the center of it all, a lively and cosmopolitan metropolis, where different cultures, traditions and novelties can mix. In Italy, it is the “fusion” city par excellence. Here everything can be done in the kitchen. I am the one who dares, I always have. I like to marry flavors and ingredients in a new way, to “open” the eyes and amaze those who sit at the table, but always respecting the general balance”.
Among the protagonists, Andrea Guolo, Moderator of the evening, who accompanied us on this journey through the various expressions of Lugana, which reads: “Four different expressions of Lugana. A unique, fascinating, well-known territory and at the same time everything to discover has been the protagonist of Identità Milano during this evening of intriguing pairings with the dishes created by a chef that I have in my heart: Elio Sironi, for me a master of grace, elegance and class. The wines of Ceresis, Olivini, Zenato And Ca’ Maiol (in strict order of appearance at dinner) expressed the full potential of the denomination. Sapidity, minerality and structure are the known characteristics of most Luganas. Its natural longevity is an added value that requires a lot of patience from the consumer to be discovered and appreciated. Today the market is ready to taste the old vintages, even among the whites. A challenge only for the Lugana it seems a little more complex simply because, for wine lovers, the temptation to finish all their small accumulated capital in the cellar is simply irresistible”.
Let’s see together the course that delighted the guests during the evening one Identity Golose Milano with the wines of Lugana DOC Protection Consortium in combination.
LAKE BRANDADE | capers, croissants and potatoes
“When we talk about lake and fish in our region, it is synonymous with tench, pike, whitefish – he says Sironi-. The brandade it is in fact a mixture of these white fish, creamed with a good extra virgin olive oil from Garda. I also added the capers which would seem to be a southern product and instead surprisingly the very tasty dwarf capers grow on Lake Como. Then there are the “croissants”, or green beans, which, together with the potatoes, are the classic Milanese Sunday salad”.
The set is very special because it combines different textures: the softness of Brandadethe green bean which is both crunchy and becomes a soup, the more tenacious capers dried in the sun, the grated lemon and its juice… in short, the perfect dish to open a dinner.
In the chalice the Lugana Doc Ceresa100% Turbiana (Trebbiano di Lugana) who comes from the beautiful land of Pozzolengo, a land that also gave birth to the great director Franco Pleasant. The manual harvest takes place in September, we proceed to a soft pressing to preserve the quality of the grapes, and to an aging of 5 months in steel barrels in order to then return the taste in purity in the glass. At sight we can appreciate the typical straw yellow color with greenish reflections, while the nose gives off a mineral scent with fruity notes and white flowers. On the palate, the flavor is tasty with a hint of almond on the finish.
PASTA AND BEANS | yellow squash and sautéed foieolo
Mediocre dishes but… so good! In particular if Sironi he looks at them through the filter of his eclectic personality.
In this case, it is fresh pasta, creamed with extra virgin olive oil, reminiscent of old recipes when accompanied by pumpkin, a Lombard memory of the Pumpkin Tortelli Cremaschi Where Mantova pumpkin risotto. “Then I add roasted pumpkin in pasta and beans, enriched – to be even more delicious – with tripe, or foiolo, called”Busecca“in Brianza, which is very linked to the memories of my childhood because it was the dish of the holidays. Smelling the smell and the taste of the tripe still gives me a feeling of joy today” explains Sironi. The final combination is very curious and interesting, with the tripe sautéed separately, which replaces the classic pork rinds, for a softer and more elegant result, but just as delicious. The final combination is very curious and interesting, with the tripe sautéed separately, which replace the classic pork rinds, for a softer and more elegant result, but just as delicious.
The combination is with the Lugana DOC Dimesse Vecchie from Olivini family. A unique wine that is produced exclusively in a raw vineyard of the company, after over-maturation on the plant and subsequent selection of the bunches. The long aging on noble lees and a prolonged stay in the bottle give the glass elegant and ripe aromas. Straw yellow in color, it offers aromas of exotic fruits with hints of almond and citrus and an ample, round, persistent and tasty mouth, supported by a beautiful structure that promotes remarkable persistence.
BEEF IN OIL | mash of polenta, peppers and agoni
Strong dish the Beef in oil: “I do it in honor of the inhabitants of Brescia and of this beautiful Lombard land – says the chef Sironi -. I really like the recipe because, despite the long cooking, it manages to preserve the raw quality of the meat.
The cup is the priest’s hat, usually cooked in oil with a fillet of anchovies, which the chef replaces – since he is not local – with an agone (in the dialects of Como and Lecco missultìtt Where misulten) which accentuates the taste of the meat, reinforces the beef. “The pepper could not be missing because in Brianza the peperonata is a must – jokes the chef – The pepper is beautiful ripe and sweet, seared on the embers, very fleshy, without skin it goes very well with the mash of agone and the typical sweet polenta here”.
Lots of material in the glass even with the Lugana DOC Reserve Sergio Zenato which comes from the most historic vineyards of the company and only in certain years that allow a longevity of this variety. Sergio Zenato he immediately believed in Lugana and suggested aging in wood precisely to promote its longevity, to the point of putting his signature on the label. In this case, we are in the presence of a 100% Trebbiano di Lugana from a vineyard located in the municipality of Peschiera del Garda to the south of the lake with a southern exposure. The grapes come exclusively from Podere Massoni, the company’s oldest and most historic vineyard (50 years is the average age of the vines). The somewhat late harvest (mid-October) gives a unique expression to this grape variety with its particular structure and longevity. Fermentation takes place partly in 50 hl oak barrels, partly in 300 l barrels and partly in steel barrels (the percentage varies depending on the vintage) for around 15 days, followed by aging for around 18 months. This is followed by a few months of refining in steel and 6 months in bottle before release. At sight, it is pale yellow with bright reflections, while the nose reveals fine floral, citrus and exotic fruit notes. The palate is thick, balanced and mineral.
SBISOLONA | saffron, pears and cheese
The trip to Lombardy ends with the dessert that goes to Mantua. “In this province we harvest a wide variety of pears, which I have combined, as a tribute to Milan, with saffron – explains the chef -. In my many travels, it suffices to mention to anyone, of any nationality, the Yellow risotto, and here the eyes light up and hear the word “Milan”. It seemed like a spice that I absolutely had to use to represent Lombardy”.
In this case, like a classic but off the beaten path, the chef brings the saffron to a sweet liquid that embraces the sbrisolona, a great Lombard icon with panettone and zuppa inglese. Sbrisolona with almonds and soup is crumbled into a pear and saffron soup, with a cheese mousse for a balanced and round finish
It ends with the Ca Maiol LAB Reserve 2019, a wine that can be defined as pure and noble, persuasive and ductile. The grapes come from the oldest vines of the various vineyards held by hand and with partly very low yields. Vinification and aging take place partly in French oak barrels and barrels, mostly new, and partly in vats for more than a year, to which must be added at least 6 months of aging in the bottle. A limited production wine, the result of many years of experience, which wants to enhance all the potential of Lugana in the proposal of wines with great structure, concentration and aging capacity. Looking at it we discover an intense straw yellow with golden reflections, while on the nose it explodes in its complexity and breadth of aromas, ranging from cedar to yellow melon, with slightly spicy touches of cumin and ginger. The evolution in the glass offers notes of pearl barley, yellow peach and lavender. The sip is dynamic and juicy with aromatic notes of yellow pulp fruit, sweet spices and saffron.
If your mouth is watering, hurry up to book the next dinner Lombardy Wines and Chefs of October 18 which sees the Lugana DOC Protection Consortium and with the boss Roberto Stefani restaurant Tancred from Sirmione (Brescia). To book your table, Click here