The school is the one chaired by Carlo Cracco, work is what Carlo Cracco does, the goal is to become Carlo Cracco. In short, a kind of Being John Malkovich applied to the kitchen. This happened to Villa Terzaghithe institutional headquarters of the educational project promoted by the Maestro Martino Association, in the Milan area, where 12 young chefs have just met (and challenged) for the competition Emerging Leader and Emerging pizza. We were on the judging panel alongside established chefs, master sommeliers and other catering colleagues to select the Best Chef and Pizza Chef of 2023, which along with the other categories Emergente Sala, Emergente Pastry, Emergente Ricevimento, en nearly 20 years of competition has launched many talents who are now recognized professionals in the restaurant industry.
The selection of emerging chefs
Emerging Chef had three independent rounds with the 3 winners who will face him in the final in early 2023. All had to present two dishes, with three ingredients available: pasta in various formats offered by Pastificio dei campi, and Parmigiano Reggiano . ; then a second dish based on truffles, proposed by Urbani Tartufi. On the other hand, there are four terms of evaluation:plaque aestheticsatoriginality of the recipeto to taste as a whole, to presentation by the chef. Here, on this last point, the boys still have a lot to learn, but we all remember Carlo Cracco at the beginning: pissed off, introverted, snobbish. Yet, today, we all consider him friendly, affable and communicative. They spoke with great enthusiasm about creativity, with a great desire to demonstrate and none of the competing chefs sinned in terms of originality. The aesthetics had its importance in the final judgment but did not prevail over the taste of the dish.
Chefs and winning dishes
The selection in Northern Italy was won by Stefano Battaini (Chef Cucine Nervi, Gattinara, VC), Dario Moresco (Brigade chef of Stüa de Michil, Hotel La Perla di Corvara, BZ) and the only woman in the competition, Irina Stratan (under the direction of La Paterna, in Giavera del Montello, TV).
1 recipe: calle dei campi with bagna freüda and Parmigiano Reggiano;
2 recipe: real pork, oriental and oyster leaves
At not even 30 years old, Stefano already has a respectable career to his credit, from the French experience with Georges Blanc (three Michelin stars), to Australia in Melbourne in the kitchen of Andrew McConnel. Before returning to Italy, he spent more than a year at the Greenhouse in Dublin, obtaining the second Michelin star with Mickael Viljanen and Mark Moriarty. For the past few months, he has been at the helm of Cucine Nervi, the restaurant opened in June 2021, and included in the revolutionary project launched in Upper Piedmont by the “King of Barolo” Roberto Conterno.
1 recipe: linguine, hay and buntings;
2 recipe: rice, cabbage and beef heart
On the other hand, coming from the mountains, he could not fail to bring with him some ingredients of the soil from which he comes, at least professionally. In this case, Dario chose hay and bunting, a tuber from the superfood category with hydrating, nourishing and antioxidant power. He works at the Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla in Corvara, a small wooden Wunderkammer in which objects are magically fixed in two faithfully and expertly reinstalled stuben from the 1600s. In the kitchen, he is part of chef Simone Cantafio’s brigade.
1 recipe: paccheri in tecia and air with Parmigiano Reggiano;
2 recipe: sour deer broth, white truffle and beetroot.