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The recipe for the 3 Michelin star mushroom soup by the mythical Régis Marcon

Story

Long before that René Redzépi tied his hiking boots and picked up a basket and scissors foraging, there was a chef who made the most shady, random and wild nature an object of study and a concept of cuisine. It talks about by Régis Marcon, the sacred monster of French cuisine, already winner in 1995 of the Bocuse d’Or, which has had three stars in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid since 2005now shared with his son Jacques.

His family’s rustic inn, called Clos des Cimeshe had already made a good name for himself thanks to his mother’s sincere cooking Marie Louise, from a line of Auvergne peasants, when in 1979, at the age of 23, Régis took control, collecting the first star in 1990 and the second in 1997. Tempted by a career in skiing, his second passion, Marcon only had a degree in hospitality and was essentially self-taught., therefore in ideal condition to tackle a subject as unpredictable, spontaneous and capricious as his talent. After the consecration, here he is moving to a more complete place, the Régis et Jacques Marcon restaurant, while the old inn becomes his bistro offices again.

Regis and Jacques Marcon

The plaque

The passion for mushrooms, which the Marcons love to collect personally in the woods, has remained a constant over the years, with many innovative hits. See the famous “forest tea”, obtained by letting the mushrooms brown for 15 hours, in order to extract humus and umami, or the first examples of use in pastry, with a pioneer boletus ice cream, even with chocolate. Marcon says he approached collecting as a boy, like everyone else in a town surrounded by woods, to save money.

Credits Maxppp

The initiation was typically the work of the parents, at the Marcon the father, wine merchant who, on occasion, stopped on the side of the road to enter the trees. While the mother cooked whole cauldrons then served them with a ladle, using Régis for the shelling.

Thanks to the friendship of a mycologist, the familiarity has deepened more and more, to the delight of gourmets. So much so that today the kitchen touches on the sixty varieties in use and when the monographic menu was to be launched, around thirty collectors went into service to procure 35 kilos of chapels per day.

Credits Philippe Barret

“The mushroom asks to be kept simple, you have to trace its taste. Each has a particular note of coconut, almond, garlic”, Marcon said. The recipe for bouillabaisse with chanterelles, these include a signature dated 2012, which over time has been varied and reinterpreted, with for example the addition of classic open mussels with shallots and white wine and their water mixed with a broth of chicken, in a sea and mountain version. The aromas are the classics of pungent smells like garlic, leek and onion, fennel for the balsamic vinegar, saffron and orange for the spiciness.. Above all, the cooking technique is faithful, with the vagaries of temperature and the rouille sauce, a kind of garlic mayonnaise with or without boiled potatoes, as a binder. Like in Marseilles.

Bouillabaisse recipe with chanterelles

Credits Philippe Barret

Ingredients for 4 persons

350 g of chanterelles

100 g white leek

60g fennel

300g ripe tomatoes

100g onion

1 clove of garlic

1 dried orange peel, 5 by 2 cm

1 pinch of saffron

3dl chicken broth

1 bouquet garni

Method

Chop the onion. Cut the white leek into 4 lengthways, wash and dry. Thinly slice. Chop the garlic and the fennel. Blanch the tomatoes, peel them and cut them in half. Empty them of the seeds and cut them into a minute of diced pulp. Clean the mushrooms. Wash them quickly in cold water and dry them.

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion, leek and fennel, turn and leave gently for a few minutes. Add the garlic and tomatoes, orange zest, saffron and bouquet garni. Mix, incorporate the mushrooms and the chicken broth, salt and pepper. Leave to simmer for ten minutes, then remove the orange zest and the bouquet garni.

For the rust

1 yellow

1 teaspoon of mustard

1 dl of olive oil

1 pinch of saffron

1 point of garlic

1 small boiled mashed potato (optional)

Method

Mix the mustard and egg yolk in a bowl, then add the olive oil. Season with saffron and garlic. Remove half of the broth from the pan and pour it over the rouille. Emulsify while beating with a whisk, then pour into the saucepan. Mix gently with a spatula and heat without boiling.

Photo: Credits Restaurant Régis and Jacques Marcon

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